🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.